Driving

As an Italian, I can say that Sicilian drivers have quite a reputation. I can honestly state that I’ve never seen anybody driving like Sicilians do in any other Italian city. Be prepared to experience an ”aggressive” approach to the road, where the rules are often not respected… Be brave, calm the nerves and pay extra caution and you’ll be fine!

Another thing to know is that the roads in Sicily are quite small – and drivers can often come from both ways – meaning that a larger campervan will most likely be stuck somewhere. We broke our car mirror on the first day we arrived because the road was so small that a lorry came right into us – and obviously didn’t stop and ran away! Be sure to check the roads before venturing yourself if you have (or rent) a large campervan.

Parking

Just as driving, parking rules don’t exist in Sicily. Or better, they exist but nobody enforces them. Within a few days, you will learn that Sicilians park wherever they want – even in the middle of the street, causing problems for other cars – and parking tickets are ignored most of the time. That’s just how it is 😅! Again, patience will be your best friend during this holiday – It’s still worth it, trust me!

The Language

English is widely spoken in tourist areas. However, don’t expect many people speaking English away from the famous cities! If you plan on visiting small villages – which are included in this road trip – you’re going to have some issues with the language. Keep Google Translate on hand!

The Mafia

Although Mafia in Sicily is still present nowadays, very unlikely you will see people walking around with a gun looking like The Godfather. Keep in mind that the Mafia is a criminal organization which costed many Sicilians their life; walking around the city wearing t-shirts with the word ”mafia” on them can be disrespectful.

The People

Sicilians are known to be very friendly and hospitable, and although the language might look like a barrier, they still enjoy interacting with others!

Payments

We had so many issues when we had to pay by card in Sicily! Although it’s compulsory for any shop to accept cards, many don’t seem to respect this rule. Many shops will just tell you that their card machine is broken and you can’t pay by card. Make sure to always have cash with you, or ask first if they accept card payments!

Attractions

Not many tourists know that most attractions in Italy are completely free on the first Sunday of the month! Find a full list here.

The Roadtrip

To circumnavigate the whole island, you would need more than a month (and still, it wouldn’t be enough to see everything). For this reason, this road trip is centred on the Eastern part of the island, considering the main places to visit starting from Messina (linked to the Italian mainland by ferries).

Car/Campervan Rental

Exploring Sicily by car is one of the best ways to admire the region – and, if you like the van life and are willing to rent a campervan, even better!
In fact, driving through Sicily allows you to see places that otherwise you wouldn’t be able to see (given that most of these are not connected by public transport). Therefore, if you want to truly see the best of Sicily, it is essential that you rent a car/campervan.

We travelled by campervan around the region, sleeping in some pretty amazing spots overlooking paradisiac beaches, and it was the best experience ever!

If you’re looking to rent a car in Sicily, I recommend Discover Cars – they have great customer support and affordable prices.

To begin your Sicilian road trip, you first need to get there, right? Well, the easiest way is to get there by plane.

If you are to follow the route highlighted below, the Catania-Fontanarossa airport is the one for you (and the largest in the region).

But if you want to bring your own car or campervan to Sicily (or renting one somewhere else), then the best way to get there is by taking the ferry from Villa San Giovanni to Messina. We booked through Direct Ferries, and chose to travel with Caronte&Tourists. It takes about 30 minutes and it’s pretty affordable!

Begin your road trip in Messina, once the capital of the powerful kingdom “Regno Delle Due Sicilie”. The nice city centre, the historical buildings and the beaches make it the perfect place to start your Sicilian adventures.

Start your holiday on a beautiful beach, one of the best in the area: “Montagne di Sabbia” (Mountains of Sand).

This particular beach is characterized by crystalline turquoise water and vertical dunes which people usually have fun sliding from. It is also possible to see the Aeolian Island and admire a picturesque sunset from the mountains. We loved it!

After a relaxed day on the beach, have a walk in the city centre and make sure to pay a visit to the beautiful Cathedral (opening times: 7:30 – 19:00), containing one of the largest polyphonic organs in Europe!

• Rosticceria F.lli Famulari: We loved this place so much we went there TWICE. It’s a historic typical “rosticceria”, famous for its arancini and the sfoglia San Daniele, which you must try! The restaurant’s walls are filled with pictures of all the famous people that went there to try their arancini. The prices are very affordable. 100% worth a visit!

• Bar Noviziato: Bar with a panoramic terrace overlooking the city, perfect to have the typical Sicilian breakfast: granita and brioche! We paid £5 for two delicious granitas with cream and two brioches. Super tasty, super cheap, just perfect!

Hotels: 

• 360Me Palace: Beautiful historic building situated in an excellent location. Large rooms with panoramic views! Check availability here.

• Elysium B&B: Modern and very popular B&B situated right in the city centre, with rooms featuring beautiful city views. Check availability here.

• Garibaldi R&B: Located 350m from the Cathedral, with nice rooms offering a view of the harbour. It deserved a mention for its perfect position! Check availability here.

Vanlife:

• Via Tommaso Cannizzaro 171, Messina.

We slept for two nights in the city centre (address above) and didn’t have any issues at all. It was very safe, the position was perfect and nobody bothered us!

Are you ready to visit one of the most beautiful Sicilian towns?

Taormina is very touristy, and there’s a reason for that: the uphill town offers beautiful views, great hikes and an enchanted historic centre full of characteristic shops and boutiques make this place really worth a visit.

There are so many things to see and do in the town that it’s worth stopping here for a few days if you have the chance.

The town is famous for its ancient Teatro Antico, a Greek-Roman theatre still used today.

After a visit to the famous theatre, head to the “Villa Comunale” for a relaxing walk, a beautiful garden offering stunning views of the sea and Mount Etna.

If you’re up for a hike, then head towards the Chiesa Madonna Della Rocca, a small church built in the 12th century. It is located on a hill from where you can admire an incredible view of Taormina and the sea.

The legend says that, during a storm, a boy entered a cave to find shelter and saw a woman with a child in her arms. From the apparition of the Madonna to the boy, the cave became a place of pilgrimage. Still, nowadays many people head to the church to celebrate the Madonna Della Rocca.

If you have the time (or if you decide to stop in Taormina for a few days), the elegant beaches in Mazzaro’, characterized by small pebbles and pure turquoise water, are really worth a visit.

If you have the chance, close to Taormina you can find Isola Bella, known as the “Pearl of the Ionian Sea“. Famous for its natural beauty and scenic beaches, you can reach it walking or by boat.

At night, be prepared to join the crowd and walk through the small alleys of the Old Town and admire its picturesque corners. Stop at Piazza IX Aprile (the main square) to admire the beautiful churches and a breathtaking view of the coast!

Being Taormina a very touristy town, most restaurants do not sell authentic Italian food and are often overpriced. Speaking with a local, we found out about the only two places which are really worth a visit if you want to taste authentic Sicilian food!

• Da Cristina: In my opinion, THE BEST arancini we had in Sicily. The place is small and very busy, but it’s worth a visit to taste the best arancini on the island!

• Da Roberto: If Da Cristina has the best arancini, Da Roberto sells the best Sicilian cannoli. It’s a family-run business, and they have been there since 1989 (my mother went there when she was my age!). They still do the same authentic cannoli, filled at the moment with delicious ricotta cheese and lots of love.

Hotels:

• Grand Hotel Timeo, A Belmond Hotel: Luxurious hotel located opposite to the Ancient Theater, offering fabulous views of the coast and of Mount Etna. A quiet and peaceful accommodation in a perfect location and with a Michelin starred restaurant! Check availability here.

• Villa Fiorita Boutique Hotel: Situated in the city center, this popular Villa is built in an antique building and it features a beautiful panoramic swimming pool. Check availability here.

•  Camera Von Gloeden: Perfect if you’re looking for something more affordable but still close enough to the city center. Every room has a balcony with mountain’s views! Check availability here.

Vanlife:

• Via Madonna Delle Grazie 12, Villagonia

It can be quite difficult to find a parking spot in Taormina, especially during the high season. However, we were lucky enough to find this quiet and panoramic spot overlooking the sea and shaded by trees! The place is about 20 minutes walking to the city centre, but be careful: the walk is a panoramic climb, and it’s not the best at night (you need torches)!

Catania is the island’s second-largest city, and it has a very rich historical heritage. The city sits at the foot of Mount Etna, with many trails leading to the summit of the active volcano.

Walk to “Piazza del Duomo” (the main square), in the heart of the old town, to admire the beautiful Cathedral, the Baroque architecture and the gorgeous fountain. Take your time to walk through the main streets and admire its unique black buildings, blackened by the ashed of the volcano!

Another thing you absolutely can’t miss is “La Pescheria“, the famous fish market which takes place behind Piazza del Duomo. Here you can admire the vibrant Sicilian culture and taste the delicious food which – I’m sure – will not disappoint you!

Once you have filled your belly, take a walk to the beautiful Giardini Bellini, the gardens with lovely flower beds.

• Arancineria Espresso Serafino: Very popular and famous for selling the best (and cheap) arancini in town! You’ll not regret it.

• Paticceria Verona & Bonvegna: Famous for its “cassata“, typical Sicilian sweet filled with ricotta cheese. Delicious!

Hotels:

• Homestay Old Town Catania: Cozy apartment offering an excellent location (next to Piazza del Duomo) with a rooftop panoramic terrace in the heart of Catania. Check availability here.

• Dome: Situated in the old town and not far from the beach, it features modern rooms at a very affordable price. Check availability here.

•  Naca Suite: The suite is located in an old building in the city centre, with a whirlpool and breakfast served in the room. A well-designed room in an excellent location! Check availability here.

Vanlife:

• Piazza Giovanni Verga, Catania

This spot was actually suggested by a local, who told us to not leave our campervan anywhere in Catania besides this place. Apparently, thefts are quite common, and this place was just outside the police headquarters! It felt pretty safe to sleep here, and we didn’t have any trouble.

This was definitely the best part of our road trip! From Catania, drive to Etna Nord – Piano Provenzana (the less touristy but not less beautiful of the two famous trails to the summit of Mount Etna) to start an unforgettable hike on the active volcano.

While driving, you will suddenly find yourself surrounded by an impressive landscape created by layers of solidified lava and ash. Be prepared to admire lava streams and massive craters. It’s a must-do in Sicily!

I highly suggest taking take a guided tour to reach the summit – it’s illegal to do so by yourself (you can only go up to a certain point without a guide). Some tours start from Catania, while others begin from Piano Provenzana.

Hotels:

• Rifugio Il Ginepro Dell’Etna: This beautiful chalet is the closest accommodation to Piano Provenzana. Besides the unique location, it features a sauna and an enchanted atmosphere. Check availability here.

Vanlife:

• Piano Provenzana, Linguaglossa

We slept right next to the tour starting point, surrounded by solidified lava and with a view of the Etna. It was super quiet and an incredible experience! I highly suggest waking up early to admire an unforgettable sunrise. Trust me!

Day 5 – Syracuse

The beautiful coastal city of Syracuse is really worth a visit. Because of its important historical heritage and the characteristic old town, it’s another very touristy Sicilian destination.

I recommend beginning your day by crossing the bridge which connects Syracuse to Ortigia Island, a stunning place to admire the typical Italian small alleys, the vibrant Sicilian culture and the beautiful castle. The island is mostly pedestrian-only, so make sure to leave your car before the bridge!

In Ortigia, you can admire the Apollo Temple right after the bridge. From there, visit the famous market (held every morning) and walk through the small streets to arrive at the Castello Maniace (entry tickets here) – the picturesque medieval castle which overlooks the sea.

Before leaving the island, visit the Piazza del Duomo (the island’s main square), and admire the white stone buildings and the Cathedral.

The Neapolis Archaeological Park in Syracuse (entry tickets here) deserves a visit – we loved it! Inside, you can admire the Roman amphitheatre, the Greek theatre, the Ear of Dionysius and much more. The visit takes about 2/3 hours, and parking is available just outside the entrance. Unfortunately, there aren’t many explanations about the attractions inside the Park – we had to google it all – therefore, I highly suggest a guided tour if you want to understand a bit of what you’re seeing!

As always, we asked the locals the best places to eat in Syracuse, and they actually told us that all the places are very touristy. Sicilians seem to think that it’s best to not eat in the city, but to go to the surrounding small towns instead. And who are we to contradict them!?

Hotels:

• Casa Mia Bella: Cozy apartment very close to the beach and not far from the Neapolis and the Cathedral. The nice terrace is the perfect place to relax! Check availability here.

• Siracusa Breakfast & Rooms: Not really in the city centre, but it deserved a mention: if you are looking for a less crowded and more relaxed place to stay not too far from the main attractions, then this is the place for you. Affordable prices, quiet location and an excellent breakfast! Check availability here.

• Grand Hotel Des Etrangers: Could not help but mention this luxurious hotel, offering superb rooms right in front of the beach (on the Ortigia Island) and a roof terrace with an incredible view. Check availability here.

Vanlife:

• Riva Sauro 1, Siracusa

This is a parking spot in Siracusa city centre. We slept here for one night and had not issues. It’s not fancy, but perfectly located to visit the city!

Day 6 – Noto & Modica

Start your day six driving from Syracuse to Noto, a hidden gem famous for its Baroque art. This small town is not very touristy, but we were so glad we had the chance to see it!

The UNESCO-protected town features golden buildings from the early 18th century, which will take your breath away. It’s worth a walk through the historic centre to admire all its beauty, the spectacular Cathedral and the other churches.

Walk Corso Vittorio Emanuele (the main street) and look out for the famous street art on the stairways – incredible!

After half day admiring Noto’s Baroque beauty, it’s time to head to another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Besides its stunning Baroque architecture, Modica is particularly famous for… Chocolate! As a matter of fact, the city has a long chocolate-making tradition dating back more than 400 years, and the chocolate produced locally was inspired by an ancient Aztec recipe. You MUST try it!

One of the best things to do – besides walking through the old town to admire its beautiful corners and the Cathedral – is visiting the Chocolate Museum. It’s a small museum and it only costs €2.50 pp, but it’s worth visiting to better understand why Modica is so famous!

Later, it’s time to taste some chocolate. Have a look below at the best places to try the authentic Modica chocolate!

• Cioccolato di Modica Sabadi’: After asking some locals for the best place to buy some chocolate, this was the first place we went to buy some chocolate. And we definitely didn’t regret it! The inside of the shop is really beautiful, and they have delicious chocolate samples to try. The staff is very happy to show all their knowledge about chocolate – and how they make it! 100% worth a visit.

• Antica Cioccolateria Bonajuto: This is a must in Modica. Famous for being the first Sicilian chocolate factory, you must absolutely visit this beautiful shop. We tried their chocolate and pistachio cannoli, the chocolate “gelo‘” (similar to a chocolate pudding) and the typical “‘Mpanatigghi” – cookies filled with chocolate and… MEAT! I know it sounds weird, but trust me, they are good 😋 !

Hotels:

• Modica Palace Hotel: Situated in an excellent location, close to the sea and to Modica’s historic centre, this four-star hotel offers a fantastic pool and rooms with a balcony from where you can admire  beautiful sunsets. Check availability here.

• Le Cacinare: Beautiful and very characteristic apartment situated in the heart of Modica, in a quiet location and with a lovely balcony. All this at a very affordable price! Check availability here.

• San Giorgio Modica Hotel: Situated in the heart of the city centre, this lovely hotel features beautiful rooms with balconies overlooking the Cathedral, for a spectacular view. The two terraces with a view of the city are worth the stay! Check availability here.

Vanlife:

• Via Medaglie D’Oro, Modica

Large and very quiet parking spot very close to the city centre and free. Perfect to visit Modica, quiet and ideal for one night!

Day 7 – San Lorenzo: Cala Silenzio

End your holiday by discovering this hidden gem. There’s a reason why this place is called Cala Silenzio, “Silent Bay“: it is frequented only by locals, it’s never busy, and we found out about it by chance. But it was one of the places we loved the most – so much that we spent 4 days there!

The place is not far from Modica, and it has charming cliffs and incredibly clear water. Surrounded by nature, this peaceful place is perfect for sunbathing, underwater diving and spending a day in total relaxation! If you’re there for the sunset, you’ll enjoy a breathtaking view.

Next to Cala Silenzio is the “Riserva di Vendicari“, definitely busier than Cala Silenzio, but worth a visit to spend a day in the nature surrounded by flamingos! In fact, besides its beautiful beaches, this place is famous for birdwatching. The natural reserve is very peaceful, and it’s the perfect place to take gorgeous pictures!

There aren’t many restaurants around the natural reserve. A local told us that many good restaurants selling typical Sicilian food are in Marzamemi, a small town not far from San Lorenzo. We didn’t try them, though!

Hotels:

• Baia San Lorenzo: Nice beach-front apartments situated in San Lorenzo Bay, with a cosy terrace overlooking the sea. Check availability here.

• VerdeMare Marzamemi: Three bedrooms apartment with a balcony situated on the beach, also close to Marzamemi city centre. Check availability here.

• I Reitani San Lorenzo: Charming Villa with a beautiful garden next to the beach. Very beautiful and in an excellent location! Check availability here.

Vanlife:

• Cala Silenzio, San Lorenzo

We enjoyed so much wild camping in front of the cliffs overlooking the sea! It was so peaceful, and one of the best locations we’ve ever been to since the beginning of our vanlife. Highly recommended!!

Extra: Aeolian Islands

If you have the time, the Aeolian Islands are well worth a day or two of your holiday. It would be a shame to go to Sicily and lose the chance to see them! The islands are particularly famous for their volcanic landscapes, their dreamy beaches (sooo beautiful) and the many hiking trails. They are really spectacular, and you’ll not regret it.

There are several tours departing from Sicily which allow you to see the main attractions of the Aeolian Islands. Otherwise, you could go by yourself taking the ferry from Messina or Milazzo (not far from Messina). However, if you have limited time, definitely go for the tour: it’s pretty cheap, and you would have the chance to see everything in less time and in a more relaxed way!

Check the map below to see accommodation prices and availability!

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